David and me
Our plans for Florence – see all the great galleries and churches in four days – didn’t go quite according to my meticulously organised itinerary.
First stop on the morning of the 3rd May was to find the Tourist Office ‘Just down the road,’ according to the lovely Cristina, but with such a small sign we walked past it several times. Procuring two Firenze travel cards, the aim of our visit, took even more time as cash was the only acceptable payment. ATM’s don’t always work in the suburban streets of Florence, as we soon discovered, but about twenty minutes later, cashed up, we got our passes for three days with a warning from the man behind the counter. ‘Some galleries are closed today because of rolling strikes; possibly all this week.’
Stunned, I asked for more information. He didn’t want to phone any galleries because it wouldn’t help. ‘They can walk off at any moment,’ he warned, ‘but the Accademia is open until 2pm.’
Galleria dell’Accademia.
Michaelangelo’s David was, of course, high on my list, so we set off on the first of many brisk walks around Florence. The front of the building was closed, with nothing to indicate where one should try to enter. Around the corner we found a long queue which didn’t seem to be moving, so I left Susanne in line and went to investigate. Down the road and around the next corner was another line and the entry for Firenze card holders. By this time 2pm was getting too close for further dallying. We politely but firmly made our way to the front of this line and were allowed into the building.
‘Where is the painting called Madonna of the Sea, by Botticelli?’ I asked our ticket inspectors. Three of them didn’t understand English, although I think they understood ‘Botticelli’ and wanted to direct me to another of his works.
After several attempts I was permitted to enter the closest gallery, only to discover an empty space where my favourite Botticelli should have been.
‘It’s in Paris, on lone,’ I was informed by a forth attendant when I returned to the ticket counter and my puzzled sister.
Another, equally gorgeous Botticelli of the Madonna with Two Angels and St John the Baptist was on show, but so high on the wall that we had to stand back in order to see it. No photos possible because of the reflections from that angle, but at least my sister was able to see and appreciate it. We put Madonna of the Sea on our list for Paris after our cruise.
David’s cute bum
The hall where the famous David is displayed was crammed with tourists when we got there, but for a few seconds they all dispersed and Susanne caught me, alone, in front of Michaelangelo’s famous statue. The best view of David is from the back – what a cute bum.
The Tree of Life
The Tree of Life was another ‘Must see’ on my list, so we walked fairly quickly through that part of the Accademy, admiring the skills of artists from the 13th and 14th century.
Coronation of the Virgin
The tempura on wood looked brightly coloured and impressive but the lights directed onto them spoiled most of our photographs. One can only take in so many of these highly religious paintings before they all tend to blend together and we were feeling hungry.
Smells coming from a cafe opposite the facade of the
Lunchtime
Academy were inviting. We settled ourselves outside under grapevines; while Susanne went to order our food I enjoyed my glass of Chianti, watching the passing parade. Waving banners, protesters marched
Protesting Accademia staff.
along the path opposite me; no doubt they were the rolling strikers from the gallery we had just left. Peaceful and colourful is how I would describe this mini-demonstration, but interesting to watch disgruntled Florentines in action. There was no sign of police, passers-by seemed to ignore them and they were gone by the time my sister returned.