San Marco was on our itinerary for the 4th May, but as it was close to Accademia, we headed that way next. Before leaving Australia, I had noted the closing time as 2pm; once in Florence we were told 4 or 5 pm. We were getting into the swing of Florentine time.
The convent of San Marco was founded in the 13th century, and thanks to Cosimo il Vecchio was enlarged and rebuilt in 1437. He reserved two of the cells for his own peace and spiritual sustenance.
For me though, the frescoes, painted by Fra Angelico, were the main reason for our visit. Having been raised as Catholics, we knew the story of The Annunciation very well; Archangel Gabriel appears to Mary to tell her that she will be the mother of God’s son, Jesus Christ.
Fra Angelico’s Annunciation
We walked to the top of the stairs in Museo di San Marco and my favourite painting of the Annunciation wowed us. Fra Angelico has created his Mary with the face of innocence and an air of humility and acceptance of God’s will. Even for unbelievers this surely has to be an image that draws the viewer in. Single blocks of colour, Fra Angelico’s style for most of the paintings, are part of the appeal in that I’m not distracted by details. Painted in 1445 (or thereabouts) the picture is still pure, clean and simply beautiful.
As closing time would be 4pm (we were told on arrival) we didn’t have much time, so, with cameras in overdrive, we hurried around managing to see the rest of the forty monks’ cells and photographing most of them; no flash allowed, so some don’t come out very well.
Judas betrays Jesus.
Jesus on the cross
Monk’s cell; the risen Jesus found by an angel.
Each cell is only about 3 x 4 metres, just enough room for a bed, a small chest or table and an opening to the outside in place of a modern window.
Museum guides were gathering up stray visitors at this stage. We took one side each of the final long passageway, clicking away regardless of the quality, just so that we had images to remember as many as possible of these humble but soul stirring paintings.
On the way out, despite the guard’s annoyance, I
Europe’s first public library, 1441
discovered the library. The notice was in Italian, of course, so I couldn’t understand it, but later read that this was Europe’s first public library, built for Cosimo il Vecchio in 1441. Being a book lover, I wanted to spend hours in there. From my position just inside the entry, all I could see were display cases, which I presumed held ancient manuscripts. The room, with its elegant colonnades and light, airy feeling was so different from the cells we had just left. I could imagine the monks enjoying their studies in such pleasant surroundings.