Lyon is also known as the gastronomic capital of France, although, having eaten very well at stops along the way, and having spent time in Paris, I wonder about this claim.
so many delicacies to choose from
Our guide for the day, being from Lyon, stressed that her city, although the third largest one in France, is actually the second largest if you take in the whole metropolitan area.
Bottom right corner, note the projector
She led us from the river to a large building with famous characters, mainly from the region, painted on the outside walls at every level. The Lumiere brothers, who invented cinematography in Lyon, are featured, and an image of Paul Bocuse stands at street level in what could almost be a restaurant.
Because the city, even the old part, is so much larger than our other stops, we had to travel by bus through much of it, but then we stopped to walk through a few traboules (secret passages,) which have been used for centuries as short cuts through private dwellings and were useful during the German occupation for hiding people and goods.
Today, those still in use,
are marked and make interesting tourist attractions. Inside the first one I inquired about the holes in the steps that led up to private dwellings
Ventilation holes for the cellar
Small, echoing space in a traboule
and was told that they provided ventilation to the cellars, where wine and food were previously stored. The central courtyard itself was so small the occupants must be driven crazy with tourists traipsing through every day. We were asked to keep our voices down, but even our rubber soled shoes, shuffling on the stone paving, echoed around and up inside the enclosed space.
Lyon takes its gourmet reputation seriously, with special signs to mark the approved eating places. Our guide assured us that if we wanted a meal,
Lyon’s official gastronomic approval
that one of these establishments was guaranteed to delight. I doubt if anyone had time or appetite for extras though, as we then went to Les Halles to see the famous food stalls and taste a few treats.
I couldn’t resist buying some extras to take back, including a slice of superb duck foie gras. While the rest of my group tried the assorted pork sausages (Lyonnais varieties of course) and local cheeses, I wandered off for half a dozen oysters—two each of three varieties, all quite different in flavor and texture – heaven. And washed down with a glass of white wine.
Some of my favourites
Returning to my group, I was surprised that they were all satisfied with the treats provided, but Gunther, our cruise tour guide, approved of my decision and I noticed him walk that way as we headed back to the bus.
For oyster lovers, the St Claire variety, especially large ones, are superb. When in France . . . My mouth is watering with the memory.